Two Weeks in Paradise

The days on Koh Phanang melted into one another the way they are supposed to when the idea is to just hang out for a while.  Rob and I would get some exercise before the kids opened their eyes and then we would rustle them up for breakfast, to do some school work and then to just “chill”.  The routine was not tough to take.  We enjoyed runs on the beach and on roads that we could actually run on without worrying our lungs would be damaged by exhaust.  The heat and the grade of the hills were limiters but it was great anyway and it was the first place on the trip where we could actually run outside.  Rob didn’t seem to mind the heat but I couldn’t manage much more than a half hour at a time.  I continue to be clueless as to how the professional triathletes that we know manage to move between Victoria and elsewhere on the planet and perform regardless of where they are. They are something else!

There was a reef just off the beach and we were loving the snorkeling until we swam head into a significant jelly fish field....we quickly changed course and raced back to shore, surprisingly escaping without a sting but leaving me a little tentative to venture that far out again!  The boys became friendly with many of the staff and it was really awesome for them and for us to learn more about their lives and their way of living.  We also met a lovely family from France with a son who our boys hung out with and who we have met up with again (more on that later).

How can you complain looking out your window and having this view.

....and Fearon would rather be doing his school work at Central?

 

The boys did a fishing trip and the staff at the hotel cooked up the catch for our dinner.  The bits of fish that we could get to amidst the bones were delicious.

On their way to board the boat

Eric had beginners luck - he caught a whack of fish

We loved strolling the beach after dark and eating at different spots on the beach each evening.  The pictures below are from our favorites. 

Waiting for dinner chilling in a hammock,  just a little less stressful than getting everything ready and eating at home.

Waves rolling in a few meters away, a lovely breeze and wonderful food.  We will remember these evenings when we are back home in Victoria.  

Eric found a little reminder of home here, do you see it?

Fearon and Eric developed their own pastimes, pool hopping being a favourite.  They used their parkour skills to run the beach, visiting (uninvited) each establishment’s pool on route. 

The rainy season in no way left us wanting for sunshine.  The sky was blue nearly everyday but on most days the clouds would quickly roll in and open up with rain coming down in buckets. Just as suddenly as it started it would stop.   Oh don’t we wish that was the pattern in Victoria.

We rented a jeep one day and cruised around the island.  Rob and I really enjoyed the fishing village in the pictures below that, unlike the one we had visited on Koh Samui, was truly traditional. We were happy to find the place tourist free yet open for exploration.

Even the smallest villages in Thailand have amazing Temples.

These elephants were ready to carry tourists for walks through the jungle.  They did not look too well kept and we decided to wait until we got to Northern Thailand for some real elephant encounters.

It was difficult to move on but we had to leave the country as  our Visas were expiring.  We also had to get our final round of immunizations so we had to get back to “development” to do that.  We sadly bid farewell to Koh Phanang and headed back to Koh Samui for more pokes and to figure our where we would go next.

Roaches to Riches on Koh Phanang

Koh Phanang is famous around the world for its monthly rave/do what you want/ dance/ full moon parties.  Every month, during the full moon, up to 30,000 crazy folks go there to partake in the “hedonistic insanity” of the world’s largest beach party.  Did we mention that we are almost 50?  No, our midlife crisis does not include wanting to party with our kids or re-live our youth in any way that may take us back to a time we would possibly want to be any where near the type of carnage that might be found at Haad Rin beach on Koh Phanang at or after full moon.

Thank goodness word has not spread that this small island is a gem close to paradise. On most of the island, apart from a few hand painted billboards, you would never know of the insane event that has made the island famous amongst party goers.

We took the ferry from Koh Samui to Koh Phanang and as soon as we stepped off we knew we were already much closer to the images we had of what our time in paradise might be like.  We hopped in the back of a pick up truck that was our taxi and progressed through winding roads dotted with truly authentic looking villages and fantastic seascapes and eventually arrived at our destination on Haad Yao beach.  

We were not very impressed with our rooms as to get there we had quite a climb up a steep walkway and stairs and once there we had no view…however, the beach was so awesome we were not too worried as we figured we would find something better on day two.

It was getting late so we didn’t waste much time heading out for a swim and wandering on the beach.  A beach with the whitest softest sand you could imagine and crystal clear blue water to complete the picture.  The magic of the beach was not at all diminished when the sun went down.  The tiny restaurants that lined the beach came to life with twinkling lights in just the right quantity to ensure beauty with not a hint of tackiness.  All this and hardly no one else there!  We chose our restaurant and after another great Thai meal we visited some other places along the beach to see where we might want to relocate to on day 2.  We found a resort that seemed to meet all of our requirements and made our way back to our room for what we anticipated would be a one night stay.

We were pretty tired and ready for sleep….until the kids opened the door to their room and

yelled at me to come and look at the big ugly bug on the wall.  I better hurry because it was moving really fast.   I stayed pretty calm as I watched a cockroach the size of my hand scurry for cover.  It was the biggest roach I have ever seen and I thought I have seen some pretty significant roaches in my past travels.  I quickly called for Rob and he came, shoe in hand ready for battle.  The roach was conquered but then another one appeared.  Call me crazy and spoiled but one roach I can perhaps deal with but many I can not.  We were out of there!  Fortunately we hadn’t unpacked much so we were set for a fairly quick exit.  The clincher came when I picked up my runner and yet another one hurried out.

The hotel would not give us a refund but they offered to move us to another area which they claimed was roach free.  The area was still pretty close to where we had been and the room had no view and was small and stuffy – no go!  We were on our way and ready to just eat the expense of the night when they offered to show us another room that they could “guarantee” had no roaches.  They guided us down their beach front to a huge “family” room with beds for all of us.  You could open the door of this room and cast a fishing line out into the ocean.  We scanned for creatures with four legs and didn’t see any evidence so we decided to call it a night and take a chance.  We were a little paranoid that some of our luggage might be hosting unwanted visitors so before we settled in we shook out every item in every backpack and then finally closed our eyes.

The room we had landed in was obviously a much higher quality room then the one we had paid for but the hotel agreed to let us stay there for the same price and our waterfront digs became home for the next two weeks.  I never thought I would be glad for roaches but in the end they definitely helped us to enjoy our time at the Haad Yao Bay View!

Towel Bunnies replaced the roaches in our second room.

This was on our doorstep.

Our largest room since starting our journey - not quite 84 Moss but not bad.

On the beach at Haad Yao.

Bangsaphan to Koh Samui

Our original plans were to spend a few days relaxing in Bangsaphan and then hop on a bus to the point of departure for the island of Koh Samui.  When we tried to arrange for a bus or a train we realized that Bangsaphan was a little more off the beaten track than we had thought.  There were no busses or trains that we could access to get to the ferry so we had to spend a chunk of bhats and hire a driver to take us.  We eventually made it to the ferry and enjoyed a beautiful crossing to Koh Tao, Koh Phanang and finally to Koh Samui.  The water was definitely getting bluer and the landscapes were postcard perfect.

Koh Samui is a popular island that has been marketed quite heavily as one of the marquee Thai island destinations.  The marketing efforts certainly seem to have paid off.  Although it was supposed to be the quiet season is seemed far from quiet to us.  We spent four nights on what was pegged to be one of the less developed beaches, Bo Phut.  It was beautiful but it was obvious to us that “less” is a far cry from “un” when it comes to development.  We had a great time and enjoyed swimming, walking on the beach and wandering around a “traditional fishing village”.   As we ate breakfast each morning we watched the fisherman cast their nets and haul in their catch.  The mix of 711’s, hawker booths, 5 star resorts and traditional longboats was really interesting but we did find that traditional Koh Samui style is quite different from traditional Peggy Cove style. 

We were glad we squeezed in the TRX and found a perfect spot for it on the beach at Bo Phut

Every where in Thailand you can find "spirit houses", small wooden houses where, you guessed it, spirits live. Most Thais have these in their homes.  People regularly stock these houses with food and offerings to keep the spirits happy.  Fearon is in front of the one that was in our resort on Koh Samui. 

One of the things that drew us to Koh Samui was that we were able to get our second round of immunizations there rather than in Bangkok.  It was definitely not a tough place to hang out for a while and we managed to get round two of shots out of the way and head to the smaller island and to the even more tropical paradise of Koh Phanang.

Bangkok to Bangsaphan

 There is an overwhelming number of things to do in Bangkok but we were eager to spend time somewhere quieter and we were looking forward to the beach.  (China was pretty intense.) September is the rainy season in Thailand and so we had to be careful in terms of choosing where we wanted to go.  We decided to head to the South East Coast, to Koh Samui and Koh Phanang, two of the many beautiful islands that Thailand is famous for.     To break up the trip we decided to first venture to what looked like a pretty nice place along the way.  A five hour bus trip got us to Bangsaphan, a small Thai village with a mediocre beach that seemed to be pretty much off the tourist trail.  Our internet research led us to a lovely little resort catering to French visitors.  Although we knew we were on our way to better beaches, it was a wonderful place to stop.  It was super quiet and we could not help but start to relax.  Looking out of our window at a field littered with oxen, palm and banana trees in one direction and the ocean in another was not such a bad thing.

The Grand Palace

Next on the agenda in Bangkok was the Grand Palace. Although it wasn’t too far from our hotel, we decided to leave walking in the heat for when we got to the Palace.  We took our first tuk tuk ride and managed to get to the gates more refreshed than had we walked.  Rob and I had known that there was a dress code and we had to cover our legs but we didn’t know that Fearon would have to as well.  He had to borrow pants that they have there for people who, like us come unprepared.  He looked particularly charming in the balloon style chinos and Lil Wayne T.

The Palace was amazing.   It is another one of those things that pictures do not do justice to.  The intricacies of every single nook and cranny were stunning.  Gold, emerald, jade, and likely numerous other coveted substances make up the many temples, royal residences, throne halls and art work that are beautifully on display throughout the grounds.  In spite of the penetrating heat, Rob, Fearon and I were enthralled by what we saw.  Eric, on the other hand, was a bit grumpy and he was glad when we took refuge in a shop across the street to take time out for a strawberry smoothy while waiting to see the Princess exit the Gates.  After the Palace, we were all pretty pooped so we decided to just go back to the hotel, have a swim and get a little school work done.

We saw some interesting things in Bangkok, any thoughts on this one?

Bangkok Bustles

Bangkok Bustles

Having already spent a full day exploring the Great Wall, we were all a little tired by the time our flight from Beijing arrived in Bangkok.  We jumped in a taxi and after a little haggling with the driver over him not wanting to turn on his meter (apparently a typical problem that you have to be aware of in Bangkok), we headed to our hotel.  We drove through some pretty interesting looking areas before arriving at the place we had booked which was in a “quiet” area of the city. Quiet being a very relative term in Bangkok as Bangkok is far from quiet.  The place was certainly not palacious but it seemed clean and there was lots of space. 

Immunizations & Time at the Mall”

The next morning we got up and went for a swim in the lovely 25 meter pool at the hotel.  After a tasty breakfast and even tastier fruit shakes we headed to the Bangkok Nursing Hospital where we had previously made arrangements to get a few immunizations that were a fraction of the price that they would have been in Victoria.   The hospital was more like a resort.  It obviously caters to foreigners who come to Thailand because of medical tourism. We received astonishingly good treatment and left feeling incredibly positive about one of our first experiences in Thailand.   It did not take us a long time to recognize that Thailand would be a much easier place to travel in than China.  Lots of people speak English and Western tourists seemed to be everywhere. 

Fearon gets the first poke.

With all we did in China, we wanted to take a break from serious sight seeing and so rather than more history we opted to visit one of the huge shopping complexes that the city is famous for.  The first stop once we got there, McDonalds!  Even though we seldom chow down on Big Macs or burgers at home, it was a comfort for the kids to have something familiar.  Fearon and Eric enjoyed the usual McDonald’s fair while Rob and I had an amazingly inexpensive and delicious lunch at a Japanese restaurant next door.  We wandered around the mall and although it was really cool to see all of the stalls full of pirated things, we got a little tired of how busy it was.   Upstairs was a movie theater and so we took in a movie, but not before standing to Thailand’s version of God (or maybe Budha), Save the King, accompanied by a video of the Kings life.  After the movie and another delicious meal we headed back to the hotel.

The next day we decided to change accommodations as where we were staying was a bit too far from anything we wanted to really see.  We got a cab to an area close to  Khao Son Road,    the road famous as a backpackers haven and close to the Grand Palace and other historical sites.  The boys and Rob found somewhere to sit with our bags while I wandered off to find us a place to stay.  It took more time than any of us wanted to spend for me to find a place that we would all be comfortable in and I was quickly discovering that it was going to be tougher than we had anticipated to stick to our original budget and still be within our comfort zone.  

We checked into a hotel right on the riverfront and ventured out to see the neighborhood.  It was pretty cool.  Lots of narrow streets full of stalls selling all sorts of things.  There were lots of places to get various kinds of massage and there was one that we couldn’t resist, the fish spa.  Fearon, Eric and Rob all plunged their feet into a large tank full of little fish that munch on your feet and legs.  Yes, that’s right, they chose to have fish dine on their lower limbs.  It is supposed to be good for you.  The verdict was that although they felt good immediately afterward, the effect was short lived.  

The fish found a lot to munch on with these feet in the water - guess who? 

The hotel pool added a little calm to the crazy city.

We wandered around, had another amazing Thai meal and then headed back to the hotel for a swim, a little R&R and some school work.  Later in the evening we went out again and the place was vibrating even more than it had been earlier.  It was a zoo.  You really do just have to cross your fingers and say a little prayer simply to get yourself across the street.  The kids insisted on MacDonald’s once more and since we knew that most often during the trip they wouldn’t have that choice, we gave in without a struggle.  (Rob and I however, found more amazing Thai food.)  It was another full day.

Khao Son Road

Hanging out at McDonalds - a little cozier than the typical McD's in Canada

How Great It Is! The Great Wall

The day after the women’s race we packed up our bags and prepared to head off for Bangkok.  It was sad to say goodbye to people we knew we wouldn’t see for a while.  Our flight was scheduled for late in the afternoon and we had time for some more sight seeing.  We had decided to save one of China’s star attractions until last.  We had arranged for the guide we met at our previous hotel, Storm, the same one who helped arrange our Warriors excursion, to pick us up at the race hotel and take us to the Great Wall.  This was an absolutely amazing day and we can not thank Storm enough!

The drive to the wall took us through lovely and quaint country side that was what I had expected to see when we went to Xi’ an.  Storm took us to an area of the wall that was completely isolated from the touristy area and this was just what I wanted.  It was stunning and we had it almost to ourselves (we passed one other family).  Totally enthralled, we hiked the wall for about an hour before having move to the next area.  I don’t even know how to explain what it was like.  It is one of those things that words can not do justice to.

The next area that we went to was reached through a farmers field.  Obviously Storm had some kind of an in with the farmer.  From the van we hiked on a path through fields and  woods to an un-restored area of the wall that was super cool.  We wandered in and out of different sections of the Great Wall of China!  It was also really neat to see the peasants going about their day. 

After we were done there we went for lunch at the farmers place.  It was really special to be able to get a glimpse into this kind of life but we were all a little tentative to eat much as the standard of hygiene was definitely not what we are used to.  After we finished lunch, we headed to the airport.  In addition to seeing one of the coolest things in the world, the other great thing about the day was being able to speak with Storm and discover his perspective on the China of old and the China today.  Fearon had been doing an assignment on Chinese Philosophy and we had the perfect opportunity to pick the brains of someone with first hand insight into how the various philosophies influence life in China today.  Eric had been doing some reading on the government system in China and in his Canadian textbook, China’s system is certainly not portrayed as positive.   Getting Storm’s perspective on the system left us with a completely different take on things.  Rather that hearing about the neglect of human rights we heard about how the government is taking care of people and how much better of people are today than they have been in the past.  Storm was convinced that one of the reasons for this is that, with a one party system, resources and time need not be wasted on fighting between parties and on lengthy decision making processes.  He is very optimistic that if one wants to succeed in China today, with hard work, one can. 

During our time in China, the kids text book school work was put on the back burner.   Although they don’t appreciate it now or even realize it, I am confident they learned far more in the ten days we spent there than they could have in 6 weeks of studying about China in a textbook.

We left China exhausted and ready to move on but with incredible memories of sights, sounds, smells and pictures that will no doubt last a lifetime.